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July 15, 2016Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann
Born from a passion for the ancient art of South American live-fire cooking, Argentine grillmaster Francis Mallmann creates a contemporary asado experience with an open-fire kitchen, local ingredients and a gaucho’s touch to transform traditional rustic recipes into sophisticated, savory dishes.
Step inside Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann, located inside former 1947 Saxony hotel now Faena Miami Beach, and be transported to a bygone era of gentility and refined sophistication. One can imagine socialites, debutantes, and the likes of Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra playfully dining under the moonlit veranda with the smoky aromas of the asado wafting across the room.
Los Fuegos is Chef Francis Mallmann’s first restaurant outside South America. The Argentine celebrity chef, author, and restaurateur specializes in Patagonian cuisine and brings his contemporary Asado style to Miami Beach. Asado, or outdoor barbecue, usually consists of various cuts of beef and other meats, cooked on a grill, or an open flame, hence the name Los Fuegos. However, any similarity that Los Fuegos may have with a rustic outdoor BBQ stops right there.
The main dining room is opulent with rich, deep crimson leather and cheetah-print cabriole sofas. The space is softly lit with warm hues from golden draped table lamps and the massive chandelier that makes up the centerpiece of the main room. A curved marble topped bar is adorned with golden pineapple vases filled with lipstick red roses. Bottles of fine cognacs line the mirrored shelves in heavy and ornate white and gold crest that runs along the back wall and framing the entire bar. Live music flows from the adjacent Living Room every evening imbibing the senses with the sounds of son and rumba clave mixed with jazz standards. One can imagine socialites, debutantes, and the likes of Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra playfully dining under the moonlit veranda with the smoky aromas of the asado wafting across the room.
The Veranda opens towards the ocean and is crowned with the gilded skeleton of a ten-foot tall woolly mammoth courtesy of world renowned artist Damien Hirst. In fact, the Hotel and restaurants are part of the Faena District, a $1 billion, oceanfront project that has redefined high end luxury in South Florida.
The Wood Oven Empanadas are delicious. Two per order filled with hand-cut prime fillet and a Llajua Sauce made of locotos and tomatoes. The mild spiciness and tender filet makes this perfect to pair with the 2012 Faena Wine, Malbec, from Uco Valley.
The menu is contemporary and by most measures surprisingly simple. Local ingredients are paired with simple masterful techniques to wonderful effect. The wine list by contrast is extensive and hefty, both in selection and price with bottles averaging in the mid $200s to well over $5,000.
Highly recommend the Potato Trio ($14), Wilted Spinach ($8), and the Wood Oven Ratatouille ($10) as accompaniments. The crudos are a great place to start. We recommend the Yellowfin Tuna with Mango, Shaved Avocado, Cilantro, Sesame Oil ($23) paired with glass of Veuve Cliquot. The Wood Oven Empanadas are delicious. Alternatively you can try the Octopus 'a la Plancha, with Potato Confit, Garlic Aioli, Smoked Paprika Oil, Tomato, Sun-Dried Black Olives ($23)
The Main courses are meant to be shared and the two stars of the menu are the Hanging’ 48 oz. Tomahawk Steak, Chimichurri and Criolla Sauce ($195) and the Parrillada, Bone-In Rib-Eye, Wagyu NY Strip Steak, Chorizo, Morcilla ($125).
The desserts consist of three options. Dulce de Leche Pancake , Chocolate Nemesis, Fresh Fruit Salad, Grapefruit & Campari.
Los Fuegos is a wonderful study in excellence. The menu is accessible and every dish is prepared with care and simple execution. It embraces its Argentine roots, but is perfectly at home in the extravagant wonderland that is Faena House. This is where billionaires rub shoulders with celebrities under the radiance of the Florida sun. A world of crimson reds, gilded dreams and a fire that cooks up more than a few memorable dishes for us mere mortals.
Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann at Faena Hotel | 3201 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida
Open daily at 6PM. For reservations, please call (786) 655-5610.